How-To: Automate Your Chicken Coop

Automatic Chicken Coop from MAKE Volume 22

Chickens are notoriously low-maintenance animals to keep, and if you’re drawn to homesteading, even in urban environments, getting a couple of hens is a great way to start. Plus, nothing beats fresh eggs in the morning from your own mini farm. Home automation is all about simplifying daily tasks, and the same applies to your chicken coop. In MAKE Volume 22, Alan Graham showed us how he made a automated henhouse in his garage with an infrared motion detector, automatic lights, heater, and automated door.

My system runs off a Mac Mini with home automation software, but what I’ll describe here is a system you can build without a computer, using components from the online retailer Smarthome My coop kicks on supplemental lights 2 hours before sunrise to increase egg laying in winter months.

At 45 minutes after sunrise, the automated door rises (and I receive a verification email/text), allowing the girls to venture out into the yard for a little free-range foraging. To go in or out of the coop, the 2 chickens must cross a motion detector, which sends me a notification that they’ve left (another email/text).

By counting the notifications, I also know when they’re done laying their eggs in the morning. Then the supplemental lights and a waterproof heating pad both turn off. The door remains open throughout the day and the girls will sometimes wander back to grab a bite.

Automtic Chicken Coop MAKE Volume 22

We’ve shared the build with you on Make: Projects. Check it out and build your own. For more great ideas on how to automate your life, pick up a back issue of Volume 22. Bok bok!


MAKE Ultimate Kit Guide 2012: “Kits and Revolution” Podcast

MAKE Ultimate Kit Guide 2012

At MAKE, we’re crazy for kits. That’s why we just produced a special issue that’s all about kits, our Ultimate Kit Guide 2012, and are also launching a new website dedicated to kit reviews, at Available at newsstands nationwide, the Ultimate Kit Guide includes 175+ reviews of top kits, ranging from beginner’s crafts to wooden kayaks to advanced robotics to alcoholic beverages and everything in between.

In addition, this special issue (not included as part of a MAKE subscription) has articles on the world’s worst and most dangerous kits, how you can build your own street-legal sports car, and how DIY medical kits are changing health care in the developing world. We also have profiles of kit makers and advice on how you can get into the growing grassroots kits business with your creative ideas. No one’s ever dedicated an entire magazine to kits like this before — we’re really excited and proud of what we’ve done!

The Ultimate Kit Guide also includes an essay by MIT research fellow Michael Schrage on how kits drive technological innovation — and have since the dawn of the Industrial Revolution. Here’s Michael reading an excerpt from this revolution-minded essay, for your podcast-listening enjoyment. And, of course, if you’re looking for gift ideas this holiday season, kits are a great alternative that offers engagement, skill-building, and pride instead of passive consumerism.

Make: Ultimate Kit Guide 2012, hitting newsstands just in time for the holidays, brings you top kits of all kinds, from beginner’s crafts to wooden kayaks to advanced robotics and everything in between! Whether you need a gift for the do-it-yourselfer who loves making things, or want to find the best kits to build yourself, this special issue will show you the way, with reviews of 175+ kits selected by the editors of MAKE.

>> On newsstands now, or buy at Maker Shed, in Print or PDF .

Subscribe to the MAKE Magazine Extras Podcast in iTunes, or download the mp3 directly.


Weekend Projects Light Theremin Mod

Proving how extensible our projects are, Weekend Projects reader Steven wrote in with his Light Theremin mod, which is quickly becoming one of our more popular projects for those beginning to learn electronics. As documented on his blog, he built several versions of the theremin, starting with a breadboard version to introduce himself to some of the components. And my favorite addition to the circuit is the 10k ohm potentiometer (#2 in the image above) for increased variance of sound output. Simple yet effective. Thanks for sending us your story, Steven!

Want a shout out on MAKE? Send us an email with your Weekend Projects story and pictures of your mod!

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See all of the RadioShack Weekend Projects posts (to date)


Secret Santa: John Edgar Park – All-Glass Steam Still

Back in 2009, my colleague John Park published his Florence Siphon coffee brewing apparatus in MAKE Volume 17. That’s him above, goggling up before disengaging the safety interlocks on his infernal machine.

I have had the pleasure of meeting John on several occasions, but even if I only knew him through his hyped-up internet rock star persona, a few things would still be obvious. For one, he is irritatingly good-looking. Also, he takes his beverages pretty damn seriously. Here’s a small sampling of some classic JEP mixological fare:

So when I drew John’s name in this year’s MAKE Secret Santa gift exchange, I knew right away that I wanted to get him something beverage-related, something mad science-y, something finely-made, and like John’s coffee machine, something just a tad infernal. And then it hit me: A steam distillation setup.

Steam distillation is the process traditionally used to extract essential oils and herbal distillates from plants and other biological materials. These products find use in perfumery, medicine, food, and industry. It can also be used to produce fine flavored liqueurs, which I knew would be right up John’s alley. And it’s something I know a bit about. I published a simple design for an improvised kitchen steam extractor in MAKE Volume 22.

This improvised design works remarkably well for something cobbled together literally from odd pots and pans, but for gift-giving, especially hypothetical gift-giving, I wanted to do it up right, to design a steam extractor that would satisfy almost any hobbyist. For “fancy” work like this, the common cost-saving measure of using rubber stoppers and/or clear vinyl tubing is not a good choice, as the volatile components extracted during steam distillation can interact with these materials, degrade them, and pick up odd odors or tastes. And though fine stills can be made from copper, stainless steel, and other metals, I wanted this one to be all glass. I love the look of glass apparatus, and it’s especially cool to be able to watch what’s happening inside the still while it’s doing its thing.

In theory, the process of steam distillation is simple enough: Generate steam, direct it through the biomatter to be extracted, condense it, and collect it. In practice though, steam distillation is a subtle art, and the details of equipment and technique are very important. For instance, here is a common illustration of steam distillation that might appear, say, in a chemistry lab manual:

All the parts are there to satisfy the theory: The steam generator, the extraction vessel, the condenser, and the receiving flask. For practical use in manufacturing small batches of essential oil, for instance, this design has a couple serious problems…

  1. The extraction vessel is too small. The aromatic compounds in most plants are present in pretty low concentrations—a kilogram of plant matter is likely to yield only a few grams of essential oil, even under the best conditions. So you want the biggest extraction vessel you can practically use, so you don’t have to clean it out and recharge it many times to distill a useful volume of oil.
  2. Steam can condense in the extraction vessel. See how the design calls for steam to flow both in and out of the extraction vessel at the top? Some of that steam is going to condense inside the extraction flask, trickle down the walls, and pool at the bottom. And eventually the extraction flask will fill up with water, submerging the biomatter, and then you’re no longer doing steam distillation, but what some call “hydrodistillation,” i.e. just boiling your extracted material right in the still-pot. You can prevent condensation in the extraction flask by heating it, as well as the steam generator, but many perfumers, for instance, will tell you that directly heating the material you are extracting will alter or damage the oils that it yields.

A better design is shown here:

The bioflask, as you can see, is a lot bigger, but most importantly it’s been moved directly above the steam generator, and is ported at both top and bottom: Steam enters through the bottom neck, rises through the biomatter, and exits out the top neck. And most importantly, any that condenses inside the bioflask just drips back down into the steam generator. Sure, there’s a chance that small pieces of plant material may fall through the bottom neck, but that’s easily prevented, if necessary, by inserting a piece of wire screen or loosely-packed glass wool.

This apparatus, incidentally, is available as a set from Avogadro Lab Supply, who also sell a Florence Siphon kit based on John’s original article. Their price of $335 for steam generating flask, bioflask, still head, and condenser seems a bit steep, to me, however, so let’s talk a bit about paring that down. While we’re at it, we might be able to make some improvements, too.

The Steam Generator

Avogadro’s kit includes a 3000 mL round flask with a small flat surface on the bottom, which is useful for transferring heat from the flat surface of a hotplate, for instance, but otherwise doesn’t add very much. Plus, their flask has only one neck. 3000 mL is a big reservoir, but if you should need to add more water while the still is in use, you’ll have to dismantle it. A better option is a slightly smaller, traditional round-bottom flask with a second neck. Like the one shown to left, with a capacity of 2000 mL, currently available new on eBay for $52, including shipping. A 24/40 glass stopper for the second neck should add about $7 to the price.

To heat it, John can use the butane burner from his Florence siphon setup, or if I really wanted to spoil him, I’d watch eBay for a used electromantle, which is a hemispherical, fiberglass-insulated electric heater with a built-in rheostat. Electric power means John doesn’t have to worry about open flames, and the hemispherical shape means much more efficient heat transfer to a round-bottom flask. New, these are quite pricey, but they turn up in the used market all the time for about $100, and since the mantle doesn’t actually come in contact with the inside of the distilling glass, the problem of contamination on used equipment is much less of a concern.

The Bioflask

This is the most specialized piece of glass in the kit. Basically, it’s just a two-liter round-bottom flask with an extra neck in the bottom. The one sold by Avogadro Lab Supply has a wider joint on the top than on the bottom, which may be handy for loading and clean-out purposes, but isn’t going to affect the quality of the distillation itself much, if at all. A bioflask with 24/40 joints at both top and bottom should work just as well for distillation—it may just take a bit longer to put stuff in or take stuff out. And if you don’t care about the wider top joint, there’s no reason not to use a column chromatography reservoir for this purpose, instead of a specially-made “bioflask.” Here’s one in the same 2000 mL volume, new, from eBay seller labglass, for $65 including shipping. Bonus: flasks with same-sized top and bottom necks are more modular. If John needs to extract more than 2000 mL of material, he can just stack another chromatography reservoir (or more than one) on top of the first.

The Still Head

This is the top-most glass fitting that moves steam from the bioflask(s) over to the condenser. It’s known, logically enough, as a “transfer distilling adapter,” and has a downward-tilted arm to deliver any condensate to the receiving flask instead of back into the bioflask(s). The one shown here is from CR Scientific, and is a steal at $25, which we’ll call $35 to account for shipping. It has a top port that can be used to mount a thermometer or temperature probe for tracking the still-head temperature, or we can just close it up with another 24/40 glass plug (+$7).

The Condenser

The condenser that comes with the Avogadro steam extractor is known as a “Liebig” condenser, and is, I believe, their 300mm long unit. It features a long straight condensate pathway surrounded by a jacket with input and output barbs for circulating water or other coolant. Canadian eBay merchant Alchemylabs sells one in 400mm length for $49, including shipping to the US.

Finishing Touches

At this point, we’ve spent $216, including shipping, to assemble an apparatus that’s at least as good as the Avogadro bundle. We could even splurge for that $100 used electromantle and still come in at about the same price as their kit. A separatory funnel of, say, 250 mL capacity, like that shown to right, might be a nice touch, as well, since steam extractions tend to produce less-valuable water layers underneath (or above) the more-valuable oil layers. Directing the condenser to drip directly into a separatory funnel makes it easy to collect oil and water layers separately, into different containers, while the distillation is still running.

And that pretty much wraps it up. John, I hope you are pleased with your gift. It cannot be returned. And if you don’t want it, well, I think I know someone who does…


Triggering a Hardware Project with a Parallel Port

Mike Szczys of Hack A Day wrote in with this guide to hacking parallel ports on old computers.

It turns out it’s super easy to use the parallel port (most likely hasn’t been used for years IF your machine has one) to trigger external electronic projects. I’m using an NPN transistor to use pin 1 of the parallel port as if it were a button connected to my ATtiny13.


The Makers Section @ Forbes

Pt 113

TJ McCue has a new section called “The Makers” at Forbes. Some of the recent posts include:

Readers sometimes ask what sites / authors the MAKE team has in “Maker playlist”, TJ was just added to mine! It’s very cool to see Forbes writing about the Maker movement too!


Secret Santa Slinks Down MAKE’s Chimney

This year, along with the gift of spacetime simultaneity, we decide to give the gift of virtuality. (It’s high-concept holidays here at MAKE!) We’re playing Secret Santa amongst the Makezine staff, but we’re not actually giving each other presents. The idea is to pick a staffmember’s name from a hat, think about something you think they’d like, and write a review/post about it. We’re also letting the recipient respond, if they wish. Hey, if it’s really the thought that counts, we’re about to find out!

BTW: What’s on YOUR list this year? What do you want, virtual or real? Tell us in the comments.


Lighted Newton’s Cradle

Neat idea from Instructables user Random_Canadian, whose mini metal lathe and homemade plastics extruder we have recently featured.

His take on the classic physics toy uses five glass marbles, each illuminated by an attached LED and suspended by the wires that power it. The LEDs have been ground flat on their tips, and attached with cyanoacrylate glue to small, matching flats ground on the marbles with a rotary tool.


New in the Maker Shed: Mini Volt Meter

The Maker Shed’s new Mini Volt Meter is super handy for keeping your eye on voltages. It was originally intended for use in RC vehicles but works great with robots, breadboards, or other projects. The vivid green 3-digit 7-segment display accurately reads voltages from 3.2v – 30v with 0.1V precision. The small size allows you to fit it almost anywhere.


  • PCB: 30mm x 20mm
  • Display: 23mm x 14mm
  • Combined Depth: 11mm
  • Weight: 5.45g

Power specifications:

  • 3.2V to 30V DC measurements
  • 0.1V precision
  • 3-4mA draw
  • Green LED display
  • Use with positive voltages only!

Android-Controlled BarBot

Nick Johnson’s barbot project has a lot of fun little details, like the laser cut pinch valves he uploaded to Thingiverse. Nick used an Android ADK board to talk to a tablet which provides the drink menu. I love how he solved the problem of dispensing liquids while keeping them food-safe.

One problem with any drink-dispensing machine is the difficulty of sourcing parts for interacting with food liquids. Pumps are expensive or impractical, valves are likewise problematic and difficult to obtain. My original intention was to use syringe pumps – effectively a DC motor hooked up to a threaded rod that pushes a syringe plunger in and out – and that was the reason behind my making the motor driver shield I wrote about previously. Unfortunately, syringe pumps turned out to be too fiddly and unreliable to use for the barbot, so I had to look for an alternate solution.

I ended up using a similar approach to that used by the DMU2.0, employing a battery powered aquarium pump to pressurize the bottles. For the outlet, however, I’ve taken an entirely different approach, and designed and fabricated my own laser cut pinch valve design. Pinch valves are handy because they don’t require interrupting the tubing through which the liquid flows, and hence they’re perfectly foodsafe.

[Via Hackaday]


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